We spent little time in Seoul, Korea's 10M strong capital city (25M if you include the suburbs around it). Three days are not nearly enough to see all that there is to see, but it was certainly enough time to leave a lasting impression.
Wow. Seoul is big. It doesn't matter how many times you are told about a place's size or particularities, you will still be amazed by them once you're there in person. I was not only astounded by the actuality of the city’s dimension and character, but by how little I knew about Seoul...its history, its culture and its way of life were all new to me.
We stayed north of the Han River, in the more 'traditional' part of town. Streets filled with food, food and more food. Restaurants with fish tanks at the front; marine spoon worms, octopus, squid, and many sea creatures I had never seen before. Korean food is very much communal, with several small side dishes to be shared in one table and big dessert cups accompanied by a few spoons. Soju is a very popular drink that is easy on the stomach whilst containing 19% alcohol. It has a smell and taste that resembles vodka.
Korean people speak little English, avoid eye contact and smile seldom; the last two pretty expected for such a megalopolis. The streets are spotless clean, the subway works like clockwork and people’s faces are constantly lit by the reflection of their smart phones.
I’ve never seen as many Hyundais and Kias in one single place before. The only other car brands you see are mostly German luxury brands such as Audi and BMW, and they were not common. Another thing that got my attention was that big Korean brands such as Samsung, Hyundai and LG are everywhere, literally. Samsung buildings, LG fashion, Hyundai Shopping Malls. The works.
On to a couple of recommendations:
1. Go to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea). It’s a particularly painful story that divides the Korean Peninsula. Korea was freed from Japanese rule after WWII, only to fall into the hands of American and Soviet shared rule; the shared power that was to originate the Cold War. Eventually, the peninsula was officially divided, the north under a communist rule backed by the Soviet Union and the south turned into a capitalist democracy backed by the United States. The north was to become the first communist government ruled by one single family in history, and the most repressive authoritarian regime in the world; and the south was to become an extremely successful economy. War broke in the early 50s when the north invaded the south and successfully gained control over the territory until the American, under the brand new UN flag, intervened to prevent the unification of the peninsula under a communist rule. Even though peace was never signed (only an armistice) and the two countries are technically still at war, the cease fire has lasted over 60 years. Still, the north has repeatedly tried to invade the south, with up to 4 tunnels discovered so far. The hostility at the border is more than apparent and what is even more unique is the attitude of the South Koreans, or at least that of the tourist guides, who are constantly praying for the eventual reunification of the two countries. It’s a unique experience, being able to feel the tension first hand. Being able to walk right up to the border, with the North Korean guards attentively watching you through goggles only a mere 100 mts appart, and the intimidating ‘rock soldiers’ watching over you. It’s also quite interesting to walk through the tunnels secretly dug and to scrolling though heavily armed roads and mine fields. Talk about a thrill.
2. Visit the ‘cool’ parts of town and mingle with the locals. We didn’t have much time but I would recommend two main ‘cool’ spots that I liked, one in the north ‘traditional’ part of town and one in the south ‘modern’ part of town. For the north, walk around Insadong to see many coffee houses, restaurants, galleries, crafts and souvenirs. For the south, go to Gangnam. It’s a big area, but if you walk around Cheongdam-dong you’ll see lots of restaurants, bars and cute little shops.
3. For fun, try late night karaoke or go for that 4D cinema experience that is only available in Korea (as of now). We had an awesome night at one of the many Karaoke places in Hongdae. Great light effects, lots of songs in English and a very nice manager, who let us sing for at least an extra hour. On the other hand, finding a cinema that plays movies in English with Korean subtitles is tricky, but we went to CGV Cheongdam Cine City and had an awesome 4D experience with effects that included seat movement, water, air, scents and even punches and stabs on your back!
We also visited the Changdeokgung Royal Palace and Secret Garden, which with a tour is really interesting. I found the mix between practicality and spirituality depicted in the architecture and art of the structures particularly exquisite. Definitely worth the visit.
All in all, a very good experience. Kamsahamnida, Korea. It was a pleasure.
