Dear Beth

I didn't know you for very long, I wish I had more time to share with you, which I'm sure is a feeling other people who knew you share with me.

Today I learned about your passing and felt deeply sad. I went for a run in the forest, knowing it would lift my spirit, and as I was following my usual route I saw that a pine tree had fallen and was blocking the way. Its trunk wasn't thick which made me think about how young it must have been and inevitably I thought of you. My heart sank.

I went around the fallen tree and continued my run, this time looking straight down. That is how I noticed just how many dry leaves were covering the forest floor. It has been an unusually cold and wet spring season in Austria and it is only since last weekend that the weather has turned. The reward for endless rainy days is that now, as the sun shines, the trees are full of the greenest and richest leaves, sheltering you from its sudden warmth, while dancing to the breeze. This again, made me think of you, but this time my heart lifted, because I could see now that just like the young fallen tree, these leaves covering the ground were not really gone and never would be. You see, at first glance it may seem that as time goes by, these "fallen things" gradually disappear, but in reality, the more invisible they become, just as gradually sadness dissipates giving way to something deeper, the fallen come back, and they expand. They become the roots, the trunks, the leaves of a new forest.

Young Beth. I can't say I am not devastated at the thought of you never fully reaching adulthood, at the thought of you never cooking for your own children, but I know this: you lived. You lived and that is a fact. You touched lives, you touched mine, and I will carry you with me, as I am sure many will. I will remember just how classy you were; I will remember your immense talent, and your equally large modesty. Most of all, I will remember your kindness. I will carry you with me. I will not forget.

Retorno

Tengo muchísimo tiempo de no escribir aquí, y más triste que eso es que, no he escrito (en general) en mucho, demasiado tiempo. 

Por qué? Porque he estado ocupada aprendiendo a ser mamá. Aprendiendo a amar verdaderamente incondicionalmente, a encontrar una fuente inexhaustable de paciencia, en crear un balance entre mi amor y cuidado a mi familia, y el amor y cuidado que me debo a mí misma. 

Hay días en que me siento tan feliz que quisiera gritar a todo pulmón que finalmente he comprobado que las decisiones que me han llevado a donde estoy hoy fueron las correctas, que los sacrificios y las ausencias están justificadas, que extraño a mi país, a mis papás, mis hermanos y hermana, mis sobrinos, mis primas y mi abuela un poco menos, que he dejado de velar a la Rocío que se quedó en Guatemala y no se mudó a Inglaterra conmigo...y luego hay días como los que he (sobre)vivido últimamente. 

El cansancio, la presión del trabajo, la soledad...la falta de atención, de abrazos, la inmensa responsabilidad, la falta de tiempo para reflexionar y pensar, tiempo de sólo ser... todo se va acumulando y de repente me encuentro en este lugar oscuro, pequeño y frío. 

Más que nunca dependo de mi esposo; necesito que me escuche, necesito que se interese en mí, necesito que me haga reír...y lo hace, lo hace mucho, pero él tiene sus propios retos, y me necesita a mí de vuelta. 

Aquí es donde se siente el enorme vacío que existe en mí, viviendo lejos de mi gente, y aunque él con razón me dice (me exige) que 'mi familia' ya no son mis padres y hermanos, sino él y mi hijo, dudo que sean mutuamente excluyentes o que incluso tenga sentido alguno crear una distinción.

Muchas veces me resisto de hablar de lo duro que es criar a una personita nueva e inocente, llena de posibilidades, la presión que te pones y te ponen sobre los hombros de hacerlo a la perfección, lo cansado que es en todos y cada uno de los niveles posibles: físicamente, emocionalmente, intelectualmente, espiritualmente...lo duro que es pasar de ser un individual relativamente egoísta y egocéntrico, a un individual con un dependiente; el tener una 'extensión' de ti mismo jugando por ahí, una personita que va a ser lo que tú le enseñes a ser pero que de igual manera puede resultar ser algo completamente diferente, una personita que merece toda tu atención pero que al mismo tiempo necesita que le des espacio y autonomía, quien necesita tu dedicación y tiempo, pero se beneficia de tu independencia y tu ejemplo. Son muchas cosas que balancear; cuando todo te indica que debes de entregarte a tu rol de madre, y al mismo tiempo te advierte que:

1. Tus hijos eventualmente partirán a hacer sus propias vidas, tal como tú partiste de casa de tus padres, y por eso necesitas continuar con tu propia vida;

2. La mejor receta para hijos felices son padres felices y no se puede ser feliz si se vive solamente por ellos;

3. Tener una carrera profesional es bueno para ti y para ellos, pero no te lo tomes demasiado en serio porque si lo haces te vas a poner demasiada presión y dejar de disfrutar la vida PERO no te lo tomes demasiado a la ligera porque si no siembras nunca vas a cosechar, mientras ves a tus amig@s escalar la escalera corporativa y tú cada vez tienes compañeros más y más jóvenes.

En fin, en cualquier momento va a llenarse de bulla mi casa de nuevo, y prefiero despedirme de quien sea que está leyendo este testimonio, en el silencio que hasta ahora disfruto, en uno de esos raros pero necesarios momentos de soledad que como padre te ayudan a seguir adelante.

Mi propio sol

Trivial la lluvia que incesante cae de los altos cielos,

si poseo al sol en mi interior.

Un sol propio que me ilumina, 

un sol que me calienta, 

un sol que me alimenta, y que me llena de vida. 

Tú eres el sol semillita nuestra. 

Irradia tu luz desde dentro mientras yo te espero aquí afuera

soñando con el sonido de tu risa, 

ansiando contemplar el brillo de tus ojos, 

deseando la dulzura de tus besos. 

Melbourne, Australia

I have wanted to go to Melbourne for quite some time. Last December I finally made it there.

We were in town for four days, just enough time to see that people there have figured it out: Melbourne is a beautiful, green city that thrives arts and culture, music and fashion. Melbourne is something like San Francisco meets Williamsburg. It's chill, yet vibrant. 

We were amazed by the abundant offer of tasty food (the produce there is to die for), exceptional coffee shops and surprisingly good Pinot Noir. The down side? Prices. Melbourne is, as the rest of Australia, notably expensive.  

Some of the best coffee shops we visited while in town are:

Market Lane - right by the entrance of Prahran market, it featured a selection of Guatemalan coffees when we were there (bonus points!). They roast their own beans and offer brewing classes and equipment as well as a killer espresso. 

Proud Mary - where the cool kids hangout. Most of the staff either have a tattoo, a cool haircut or a unique sense of fashion. You feel cool by association, just by walking in- and then there's the coffee and the food, the music and the drinks. Proud Mary is also a wholesale roaster distributing its coffee across Australia. 

Annoying Brother - owned by a young entrepreneur who is, like most Australians, very passionate about the coffee he drinks and in his case, the coffee he serves. Good food too. 

And this is where we got the tastiest food:

Ici - their menu is seasonal and purely inspired by fresh local produce. Yummy.

South of Johnson (SoJo) - good food and good coffee. A nice place to meet a friend for a catch-up or spend an afternoon reading a book on your own. 

Grub Food Van - great spot on both sunny and rainy days. It offers funky drinks and tasty food, and it has a "home away from home" feel that makes it perfect to chill out when you're just feeling lazy. 

Bowery to Williamsburg - hidden in the middle of busy down town Melbourne, this place offers a limited menu mostly composed of generous sandwiches. The coffee is good.

Most of the places listed above are for day-time eating. Our local friends told us that Melbourne is very much about going out for food during the day, and cooking dinner at home. It's a brunchy sort of city.

Eating and drinking aside, we took advantage of Melbourne's many blush parks, out of which we especially enjoyed the Carlton Gardens with its strong, climbable trees and happy people.  We also paid a visit to the Queen Victoria Market (yummmm...!), and then, for what was the trip's highlight for me, we went on a road trip to Sorrento and, wait for it...SWAM WITH DOLPHINS*

*Ok, as the captain of our boat put it, out of 100 trips out to sea maybe 1 time he won't find any dolphins. We were that 1 time. It was okay though, because we got to swim with seals! And I'm not talking about one or three...I'm talking several sets of ten either really young or really old male seals (we visited a male colony).

It was one of the most heart-stopping experiences of my life (that could also have something to do with the 10 degree water we were swimming in!). 

Seals are curious, clumsy-yet-gracious, strong-yet-cuddly and STINKY creatures I've ever interacted with. Just WOOOOOOOOOOW, it was absolutely fantastical. 

Melbourne gave me that feeling of comfort you get when you visit a place you know you will come back to. I'm looking forward to the next time. 

Guatemaltecos Extraordinarios

Juan Carlos Molina es una persona que irradia luz. Oírlo hablar acerca de Guatemaltecos Extraordinarios equivale a correr varias vueltas por la cuadra; te agita el corazón y te roba el aliento. El amor, la entrega y la pasión que cada célula de su ser delata por los jóvenes con los que trabaja es una inspiración. Su entrega es completa. 

Hace poco más de dos años, Juan Carlos inició este proyecto de amor en el que busca (ambiciosamente) "rescatar almas", transformando las vidas de jóvenes en riesgo de delincuencia, drogadicción y pandillismo en el área del basurero municipal de la zona 3 de la Ciudad de Guatemala. Su página web, www.guatemaltecosextraordinarios.org, describe su objectivo como "que la persona descubra su esencia para revelar su naturaleza extraordinaria".  

Desde hace más de 60 años el basurero de la zona 3 recibe los desechos no sólo de la ciudad de Guatemala sino de todo el departamento, y alrededor de él viven y trabajan familias en condiciones de extrema pobreza que con el paso de los años han invadido el área y construido barrios enteros de casitas hechizas fabricadas de lamina o madera (materiales que encuentran en el basurero), champitas sin acceso a agua corriente, sin sistema de tratamiento de aguas negras; colonias enteras sin escuelas o centros de salud.

Estas familias, generalmente numerosas y poco educadas, se dedican a recolectar material de reciclaje para vender, como latas, vidrio, papel o plástico, y otros objetos para cubrir sus propias necesidades básicas, como ropa y alimentos desechados. Se les conoce como "guajeros". Para hacerte una idea de su estilo de vida, mira esto. 

El mundo en el que viven estos niños y jóvenes es difícil de imaginar y más aún de entender, pero Juan Carlos los describe como "niños tristes que viven en un total y completo desorden; un desorden emocional, físico y sexual". 

Su mundo es un mundo de absoluta contaminación. El aire es espeso y reseca la garganta, la visibilidad limitada, el ruido incesante, la basura infinita, los olores opresivos. Sus opciones? Restringidas, digamos. Su destino es casi certero: desechos sociales, como "guajeros", como adictos (espapistas, pues) o como delincuentes, viven al margen de la sociedad, una sociedad que los etiqueta de criminales e indeseables, que los rechaza y completamente ignora. 

Guatemaltecos Extraordinarios cuenta con una metodología excepcional de varias etapas, en grandes términos divididas en dos: sanación y superación. Su programa dura un espacio de dos años, y al final del camino los valientes resultan personas capaces de reconocer sus propios dones y talentos, con la convicción necesaria para trabajar en desarrollarlos y construir una vida en la que sean extraordinarios. 

El camino es largo y es muy duro, muy intenso, muy profundo. Duele, es vergonzoso, es complicado. Requiere paciencia, humildad y mucho coraje. Es por eso que Guatemaltecos Extraordinarios trabaja a través de un auténtico vínculo de amistad, bajo la premisa que "solo esta auténtica relación humana permite conocer lo mas íntimo del ser humano para saber dónde sanar y revelar la extraordinaria persona que lleva dentro". 

Juan Carlos citó a Albert Einstein revelando una verdad humana absoluta: "El ejemplo no es la mejor manera de enseñar, es la única". Luego imaginemos a estos niños y jóvenes, personas que no conocen más que el mundo en el que (sobre)viven, y la luz de Guatemaltecos Extraordinarios se hace más intensa. El trabajo que están haciendo por estas familias, por Guatemala, es invaluable. 

Su misión es tan ambiciosa que resulta aún más extraordinario (valga la redundancia!) que el equipo se limite a tres personas. Ayudémoslos, colaboremos, seamos parte de esta delegación de esperanza. Cómo? Con tu tiempo (como voluntario) o con tu apoyo financiero (como donador). O, idealmente, de ambas maneras. 

Más información aquí.

Depósitos bancarios al BANCO INDUSTRIAL, S.A., CUENTA MONETARIA No. 457-000156-0, ASOCIACION GUATEMALTECOS EXTRAORDINARIOS. 

Para aportes directos, contactar a Juan Carlos Molina (+502 2471-7059).

Myanmar (Burma), the review

What a place! 

Burma was always meant to be one of the highlights of our trip- we pictured it as this fascinating, complicated and particularly beautiful country and we couldn’t wait to explore it...and explore it we did. 

Walking around the streets of Yangon is like traveling back in time. The feeling you get is similar to that you get when visiting La Habana, both having been frozen in time mid 20th century. Yet Yangon is bigger, dirtier and more chaotic. The old colonial houses are easily missed under stained walls, the paint having surrendered to the annual torrential showers. The streets are covered in red stains, fresh and dry, from the constant spitting of local men chewing betel nut incessantly, and just a short walk around the city is sure to procure a bazaar of smells, colours, sounds and people more diverse than that you might find in a whole country somewhere else. 

Few people know much about this country, mostly because it gets confusing: Myanmar, known as Burma until 1989, was an English colony for a short while; it was also a place ruled by many small kingdoms once, and it has been an international pariah since 1962. It’s complicated. 

Once you’re there, the complexity of the country becomes apparent. A long history of ongoing ethnic conflicts, bureaucratic chaos, systematic corruption, and military repression have created a country that is as knotty as it gets. 

Sadly, Burma continually ended up becoming a victim of history. Bad luck (bad timing) again and again got on the way of Burma’s attempts to progress: the decline of the English empire, Japan’s imperialism, World War II, China’s Cultural Revolution, the Vietnam War, the Cold War…

Extremely diverse, constantly unstable, always vulnerable: Burma’s story is that of a beautiful place imprisoned by incompatible aspirations, both internal and external.

Today, after over 50 years of isolation (partly self imposed and partly because international sanctions) it is awakening as a fascinating and naturally magnificent place. In 2011 the repressive military junta that held power since 1962 was dissolved and even though it retains great power over the government, democratic reforms are taking place as the country continues to open up to the rest of the world. 

Because tourism is still quite limited, the experience is very authentic. Local people are very curious about foreigners (to some of them we were the first foreigners they ever saw or talked to) and they smile shyly but easily. The younger generations read and write good English but don’t get to practice it, so they appreciate a chance to. Most of them hope for a professional future in the (thriving) tourism industry or a job abroad. Singapore seems to be a popular destination. 

           

Buddhist monasteries have a strong presence all over the country, but we came across many churches, temples and synagogues as well. 

Rice is a big part of the local culture: a central element to their meals it is not uncommon to see young buddhist nuns singing along the streets and collecting rice from believers in the afternoon hours. I remember thinking that rice even shaped Burma’s landscape, with never ending green rice paddies dominating the horizon. 

Traditional wear, the longyi, is widely used in urban and rural areas by men and women. Trousers are pretty uncommon. 

Electricity, sewage systems, roads…infrastructure in general is scarce. This is one area where the government’s incompetence is beyond apparent- and a major factor holding the country’s economy back. I read somewhere that Myanmar people like “new” things and I don’t know if that is true but the military junta certainly did: with the country’s main cities lacking proper roads to connect them, they built a “new capital” in Naypayidaw.

While in Yangon, the country's largest city, we visited the Shwedagon Pagoda: Burma’s pride and glory, and one of the most impressive buildings we have ever seen. Its golden structure shines beautifully under the sky and its central stupa is made of genuine gold plates. Burmese people donate gold to the pagoda to maintain it, a practice that started when the pagoda was first built in the 15th century. I found the Sule Pagoda quite impressive as well- built 2,500 years ago, it’s a symbolic place in the country’s history and that is something you can feel and see as you walk around it looking for your corresponding shrine. 

Bagan is one of the most beautiful and spiritual places I have ever been to. Over 2,000 temples and pagodas beautify the horizon and take your breath away. Red brick stupas look up at the sky from a green sea of trees and hot air balloons add to the impossible beauty of sunrise and sunset in this place. The most practical and fun way to get around the temples regardless of where you stay is by bike. The heat that dominates this region most of the year allows you to ride around the temples early in the morning and late in the afternoon.

My favorite part of our trip in Burma was the 3 day track we did from Kalaw to Inle Lake. Our group of 7 (including Naing Naing our guide) walked 62 kms across the Southern Shan region, spending the night in family homes, visiting isolated little villages amongst endless (and gorgeously bright) green rice and tea fields...the scenery was astonishing and the time we spent walking (between 6 and 8 hours a day) gave us the chance to view, experience and reflect upon the country we were discovering in the best possible way. It was awesome. We met so many kids on the way (I gained the honorary title of ‘tooth fairy’ by refusing to give away candy to the children and giving tooth brushes away instead) and we were fortunate enough to meet Myanmar people of diverse ethnicities, faiths and cultures. 

We chilled in Inle Lake for a couple of days and got a chance to see its artisanal fishermen, with their elegant rowing technique, their awesome nets and boats. The lake’s water has a texture that is often described as ‘inky’; I don’t know if that’s the best word to describe it but its water certainly is particular, it’s special- I would use terms closer to mysterious and holy to describe it, partly because of its look and feel but mostly because of the amount of life that blossoms around it. 

We ended the trip back in Yangon, which by our second visit made a lot more sense. Overall Burma was an experience that aroused all of our senses, a thrilling place to visit. We were tired and ready for some Aussie hamburgers, but I felt a little nostalgic about leaving Burma. What a place! What a country!

Cambodia, the review

We decided to go last minute. We hadn't booked anything as we considered whether to visit Hanoi in Vietnam or to go to Cambodia instead. We only had a week before we were due to land in Myanmar (Burma) and even though Vietnam remains undiscovered to us, I’m happy we decided to go to Cambodia. We spent one week there and in that time we visited Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. 

A modest budget goes a long way in Cambodia, so we stayed at The Plantation in Phnom Penh and in the Bunwin Boutique Hotel in Siem Reap. These are two of best hotels we’ve ever stayed in-  first class design, a tranquil atmosphere and top level service. 

Very quickly Cambodia found its way into my heart. It’s a beautiful country with excellent people, and the food is to die for. 

Similar to my previous experience in Korea, I learned how little I knew about it while I was there; Cambodia has a grand imperial past but due to its geographical position it has been caught in regional power struggles for centuries. It became a French colony in the late 19th century, until its independence in 1953- a hot time in international politics. In the midst of the Cold War Cambodia attempted to stay neutral but it eventually got caught in the middle. It was bad. 

In Phnom Penh we saw a lot of poverty; skinny kids running around naked, filthy streets and people openly living in half done shacks that served as shops during the day and covered them from the drizzle by night. Walking or driving around town is quite challenging- there were more motorcycles than in any other city I’ve been to before (‘bikes are the car of the poor’ our taxi driver remarked), and there was no apparent logic to the traffic. It’ somehow fun though: there’s no anger in the honking, and you get this sense of pride when you manage to get your way.

Cambodians have a smile in their faces most of the time, but it is hard to miss their sorrowful past and notice its consequences. We had read about Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge regime before, but when we visited the Killing Fields and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (once the regime’s secret police headquarters) we got a graphic idea of the atrocities committed during this time in the attempt to create a “pure agricultural state”. From 1975 to 1979 the country was ruled by fanatics that oppressed, tortured and mass murdered its own people leaving over 2m dead (approx. a quarter of the population) and setting the country back decades. The fall of the regime was followed by a war with Vietnam that lasted over two decades, causing more suffering, famine and death. 30 years later we visited a wounded but beautiful Cambodia, finally getting back on its feet, with great spirits and with a clear intention not to forget, but to build from its past. 

In Siem Reap we were blown away by the beauty of the many temples in the Angkor region. The most renowned ones are Angkor Wat, Prasat Bayon and Ta Prohm, but there are countless more to see. We spent over nine hours walking around these testaments of grandeur and faith (buddhist or hindu, and sometimesboth). I could not believe myself then and even now, looking back, it seems unreal that places like that even exist, and that they are man made. The beauty and magnificence of the temples cannot be put into words because it’s not about their size, their detailed artisanship or age; it’s something you feel because of what they represent and what they are a proof of. 

For me personally, Cambodia hit a nerve; the character of its people reminded me of my own: Guatemalans are generally docile and submissive, they keep their opinions to themselves, try to avoid painful memories and smile constantly. While I was in Cambodia, I read Haing Ngor's book Survival in the Killing Fields and I cried many times upon the constant realisation that even the kindest of us are capable of the worst barbarities. The brave and indispensable efforts not to let people forget now on display in many ways across Cambodia filled me with hope, and perhaps a little fear; for Guatemala has a disturbing past of its own, and we are yet to honour it, recognize it and learn from it as a nation. 

Inspiring and fascinating, Cambodia is a place to experience. 

The Philippines, the review

I will never forget the feeling of awe that overtook me as we approached Busuanga Island. The view from the airplane was like something out of my dreams: clear blue water surrounding round green hills, bald and almost funny looking, and incredibly beautiful. 


The Philippines has some of the clearest natural water to swim in. FACT. It has an infinite number of perfect unspoiled beaches. FACT. It has some of the world's best wreck diving spots. FACT. HOWEVER, once you have been there, nothing is more clear than the fact that the Philippines' biggest asset is its people. For Filipino people smiling seems to be as natural as breathing. They tend to live pretty laid back lives and like to make fun of everything. That includes you, me and everyone else. 

It would be unfair to speak of The Philippines without mentioning we only visited a portion of its over 7 thousand islands: the Palawan region, which sits southwest of the capital Manila. We landed in the island of Busuanga on a Monday afternoon after a brief stop in Manila (chaotic, loud, dusty) and stayed near the small town of Coron, which consists of one strip of roads packed with travel agencies offering island tours and boat rides, a couple of diving schools, restaurants and small hotels. It was here that we first rode one of the locally popular 'tricycles' which are basically regular motorcycles with a cabin attached to one side fitting about 4 additional people. They are not very fast, probably dangerous and certainly fun. 

What makes a visit to Coron worthwhile is the beauty of the island. Its main attractions include the beautiful rock formations and rock inslets around it, Kayangan Lake, and its amazing wreck diving spots (Japanese ships from WWII) which have earned Coron a place on the world's top 10 scuba diving spots (we took advantage of this and got our Advanced Divers License in Coron).

I also found impressive, especially in a country with messy politics and a reputation for a corrupt government, that most of Coron island's land belongs and is managed by the indigenous Tagbanwa, which take excellent care of it and continue to lead their traditional ways of life there while getting a bit of extra money from tourism to build schools and hospitals. I loved this. 

The Philippines' Spanish colonial past is not evident, or at least not in Palawan. People here speak mostly Tagalog, a language that doesn't resemble Spanish at all, although it does use some Spanish words, numbers and expressions. 

The highlight of our time in The Philippines was the 5-day boat expedition from Coron to El Nido we did with TAO Philippines. We explored remote islands, went to the best snorkeling spots, ate fresh fish every day, sometimes even sashimi from tuna caught on the way; we engaged with local communities, played, sang, danced and had a blast both on board and in the base camps we stayed at overnight. We were a group of 17 people, including the crew, gathering a handful of nationalities, professions, ages and lifestyles. 

Our adventure, summed up:

1. Volleyball Island: 

First base camp we stayed at. We called it "Volleyball Island" because we played two very unprofessional, very fun volleyball games there. We were joined by kids from the local community, who were incredibly curious and smart. I complimented them on their English and asked whether they learn it at school and they said no, they learn it from the TAO crew and the groups of tourists they bring along every week during high season. It blew my mind. 

At this point the group was just getting to know each other  but had a bit of help loosening up from the crew, who kept passing cups of pinneaple rum around while we watched the sunset from a hill. That night,  and every night, we dined al fresco. After dinner, a couple of us went midnight swimming and I had one of the most magical experiences: swimming in sea water filled with phytoplankton. It was a starry night and the water was completely dark but as soon as you moved around in it the plankton starter shining like glitter. It was like swimming in the night sky. It was beautiful. 

 



2.Karaoke Island: 

This island was a lot smaller and a lot more basic. We all had to sleep in one big hut, there were no electric plugs. but there was something better: a karaoke bar. 

That night cost us a whole day of good food as our chef got so drunk he was out for the next 24 hours, but it was really fun. I also saw live squid swimming for the first time- haven't eaten calamari since. 

3. Paradise Island: 

We got delayed by strong currents and couldn't reach this island until late at night. By then, it was dark and the water was extra choppy. As each of us put our headlamps on, grabbed a couple of personal things for the night and jumped into kayaks, we were all quietly praying we wouldn't be the ones to flip over. 

It was, for me, the most beautiful camp we stayed at. It consisted of small huts lit but candle, as there was no electricity. The huts were perfect for two and had no walls, the sea breeze providing the perfect natural ventilation that sent us all into deep sleep, just to wake up right on the most gorgeous beach of all- a couple of steps to the water. Wonderful. 

4. Pig Island: 

It was our last night together and it couldn't have been more perfect. We had a camp right on the beach, a speed roasted pork ready for us to feast on and a group of local women TAO had trained ready to give us a full body 60-minute massage right under the stars. Most of all, by then, we were a big group of friends ready to have another night of fun together. 

A bonfire was lit and like out of a movie a talented, friendly Filipino guy came out of nowhere with a guitar and started playing the all time favorites. We sang for hours and went on to finish any beer, any rum and any whisky that was left. We cleared the house, or boat rather. 

Before reaching El Nido we stopped at the "Big Lagoon" for a quick snorkel and it was incredible. We saw turtles and stingrays, had our last swim together and then parted. 

It's funny; when we first arrived on the morning of departure, excited but not really knowing what to expect, we were told by the TAO crew that we would end up becoming friends for life...and to me, it seemed unlikely that 5 days could have that effect on such a diverse group. But they were right! To Debbie and Paul, Anita and Josh, Harriet and Jan, Miranda and Cristiano, Andy, Catherine and the TAO crew: I MISS YOU. 

We shared and experience that was made great not by the sheer beauty of the places we visited but rather by the unashamed openness with which we treated each other. Thank you. 

The last couple of days we spent in El Nido, making use of our recent Advanced Divers License and getting a couple of more dives into our logbooks. I send most of my time daydreaming about the fantastic and new kind of tourism my eyes had just been open to: so organic, so socially responsible, so eco. I decided I wanted that for Guatemala too and added it to my ever-growing To Do List. 

Thank you to all of our Filipino friends...Filipino Power is with us. Forever!

Hong Kong, the review

I found Hong Kong very impressive. Modern and vertical, it is a testament to men's will and power. With possibly the highest density of people I have ever experienced, slightly more chaotic than the big cities in Korea or Japan, Hong Kong has a characted of its own. 

Most of its inhabitants are Chinese, which of course makes sense, but I expected to see more British and overall more expats. Surprisingly though, English speaking is very limited. 

Often described as 'a city where east meets west', Hong Kong is a very interesting mix between traditional and modern China. Walking around the city you get to experience the colliding worlds of wealth and luxury faced with dirt-cheap modesty. Big beautiful hotels, expensive cars and fancy stores surrounded by crowded replica stalls, big messy markets and dirty little side streets.

Hong Kong's identity is inevitably linked to money. As you stroll down Hollywood Road you bump into many ambitious young people, most of them working in either finance, shipping or legal firms. A considerable number of them end up in HK due to the lack of jobs in their places of origin. 

The art scene seems to be growing with an ever expanding number of galleries and museums all over the city, and there's enough stores and boutiques to drive a girl crazy. You can also get really good food for reasonable prices: we went to possibly the cheapest Michelin Star restaurant in the world called 'Din Tai Fung' and had the best dim sum we have ever tasted. 

While in Hong Kong we got a good day view of the city from 'The Peak', a perfect night view of the city sailing on the 'Aqua Luna' and we walked around like crazy. We didn't make it to the Big Buddha, Macau or any of the enchanting fishing villages around the city...but HK is one of those places you just know you will visit again. 

For now I will remember it as a city of contrasts, where every lady seems to own a chanel bag. Original or replica, that's beyond the point.

A mi esposo

A mi esposo Max,
a sus 33 años de vida,
y a su trayectoria, que si ya es grande, 
apenas da pistas de lo que alcanzará. 

A sus profundos ojos azules,
tan llenos de la dulzura de la cual soy objeto, 
a su sonrisa honesta y su risa regalada. 

Al hombre que me enseñó lo que es el amor, 
el amor que nace sin razón ni motivo, 
pero también el amor merecido, 
que es el único amor que es inmortal. 

Por su infinita generosidad,
expresada de incontables maneras, 
y manifestada en ilimitadas caricias, paciencia y apoyo.

Por la vida que juntos construimos día a día, 
que parece una vida inventada pero es real, 
y porque nunca dejas de sorprenderme, 
constantemente superando mis expectativas...las reales y las mías. 

Mi amor,

Te amaba ayer, 
Te amo hoy, 
Te amaré siempre. 

Seguime bañando con el calor de tus besos, 
y prometo entregarte mi vida,
y hacerlo con gusto. 

Feliz cumpleaños Kiru.

CUANDO ERA NIÑA

Cuando era niña el mundo me parecía simple. 

Ahora, se muestra sin vergüenza y me deja examinarlo sin pudor ni pena.

Supone que una vez perdida la inocencia no hay porqué maquillar su grandiosa imperfección. 

Y yo, evoco con más frecuencia las palabras que mi papá me entregó en una carta, 

colocada bajo mi almohada hace más de veinte años,

escritas bien entrada la noche con lo primero que encontró en una casa llena de niños:

un crayón de madera color salmón con su estilosa caligrafía de ingeniero.

"A veces quisiera pensar como un niño". 

Me parece absurdo que los adultos insistamos en educar a los niños, 

asumiendo que entendemos el mundo mejor que ellos.

Quizás deberíamos visitar más seguido nuestra propia perspectiva infantil. 

Enseñarles a leer, enseñarles a escribir, 

y dejarlos explicarnos, 

dejarles recordarnos, 

cómo pensar como humanos. 

CONTIGO APRENDÍ

Contigo aprendí que existen incontables formas de amar, 
aprendí que hay abundantes modos de placer, 
y que los mejores son inesperados, volátiles y voluntarios. 

Aprendí que la vida no es una, sino múltiples:
las vividas, las dejadas de vivir, y las soñadas, 
y que éstas se viven de manera intermitente,
dejándote después con una amalgama de recuerdos, 
la mitad inventados y constantemente reconstruidos.

Alguna vez leí que la vida no es la que se vive,
sino la que se recuerda, y cómo uno la cuenta...
y, ¿cómo cuento entonces la vida que vivimos tú y yo juntos?
¿cómo regreso al país que inventamos?
¿cómo despierto a los fantasmas de los sueños que compartimos?

Japan, the review

Two weeks in Japan are certainly not enough time, but as I leave I find myself feeling pretty happy (and exhausted) about all that we managed to experience during our stay. In 12 days we visited Tokyo, Kyoto, Nara, Naoshima and Osaka.

My impression is that Japanese people are incredibly polite, curious and pragmatic. I was very impressed by Japan overall; the size and harmony of its cities, its simple yet impeccable sense of style, the practical way of thinking of its people, which is reflected in everything everywhere; but most of all, I was wowed by their modern traditionalism, something I have never seen anywhere else. Japanese people have embraced ‘globalized ways’ (for lack of better words) while still practicing their traditional customs. This is reflected on their many shrines and temples (always filled with worshipers), their social rituals, and their respect for the elderly, to name a few.

Tokyo is a very big city that surprises you by its calm and feasibility. Some tips for when you visit Tokyo:

1. Approach the city by neighborhood rather than by specific attractions. Some of the places we visited:

• Harajuku: expect to find crowds of young people wearing all sorts of fashion styles. Great for people watching and also a good place to shop or get your hair cut. Lots of cute little boutique shops hide behind Omotesando Hills where you find all the big designer brands. It is also right next to Jojogi Park and the Meiji Shrine which are beautiful and also fantastic spots to discover the Japanese modern yet traditional way of living. I especially liked the woods around the Meiji Shrine - a full grown forest right at the heart of the city, you can get lost there for hours and just listen to the cicadas and the trees.
• Akihabara 'Electric Town': this is very cool. Chuodori Street especially, which hosts an endless number stores and buildings filled with electronics, gadgets and accessories. There biggest store there is called Yodobashi and it has 6 floors filled with electronic products that range from cameras and computers to watches and beauty electrics. Hanging out in this area is fun even if you're not allowed to shop (like me!) because of all the video game consoles, manga and anime. We even got blisters from playing so much!
• Shibuya: worth a visit as well. Great for shopping and home to the famous 'Shibuya crossing' which is the Tokyo version of Times Square with a scramble pedestrian crossing that was made famous  by 'Lost in Translation' (the movie) and is just incredible because of the amount of people that cross it every couple of minutes. This is were you find xxx the dog also.

2. Do what the locals do, the way to locals do it. We didn't have much time, but I can think of a couple of good examples:

• Go to the Tsukiji Fish Market before 7am and have fresh sushi for breakfast. Tsukiji Market is a wholesale fish market, probably one of the biggest ones in Asia. Known and visited by few curious tourists, it hosts a Tuna Auction early in the morning and it offers a very diverse and interesting variety of sea creatures. It's busy since early in the morning but visitors are no longer allowed inside before 9am. However, if you're discreet you'll manage to explore a bit before you are politely asked to leave- and then that's breakfast time! There's a growing number of small sushi places right by the market, but the most famous one is called 'Sushi Dai'. For about 25 quid get a sushi plate of the highest quality and freshness, hot miso soup and green tea. Some of the fish you'll be handed won't look or taste familiar, like Uni (Sea Urchin) for example; but it's worth trying, even if only once.
• Watch Sumo. If you're lucky enough to be in town during one of the Sumo Tournaments, definitely get tickets. Sumo is surprisingly nice to watch- the matches are brief, but you get lost in the stadium, the audience, the rituals around the wrestling ring or dohyo, the styles and techniques of each of the wrestlers...it's worth it.
• Go to a baseball game. Baseball is huge in Japan and so are the stadiums. People go crazy with the cheering, the team memorabilia and balloons. Really fun.

KYOTO is a beautiful city and it was probably our favourite place in Japan. With a couple thousand temples, both Zen (Buddhist) and Shinto, Kyoto also has a wonderful culinary offer and it's a fun place overall. A couple of tips:

• Rent a bike while you're there. Kyoto is enjoyable and safe even for first-time-urban-bikers. The city is bigger than you'd expect, although pretty chilled and with a lot less people than Tokyo. You will find a lot of fellow bikers around, who enjoy priority over pedestrians. It's fun, plus with the amount of temples and shrines to see it's an easy, fast and cheap way to get around!
• Enjoy the shrines and temples, but don't rush it. Kyoto has so many temples to visit that you might feel like you need to hurry in order to see as many as possible; I would recommend that you visit at least the Golden Pavillion, the Fushimi Inari Shrine and Sanjusangendo Temple. Those were the ones that I found most impressive. I was also taken by the smaller, less known and crowded ones we visited spontaneously and would recommend you see a couple of these too, because you’ll find it easier to feel the energy and spirituality of these places away from the crowds, the cameras and the souvenir shops.
• Visit HAFUU for the best beef. Ever. Small and isolated, this place is run by a veteran Kyoto butcher and though it can be pricey, there are some budget yummy choices. HAFUU will make non-meat lovers crave meat later.

NARA is and feels a lot smaller than Tokyo or Kyoto. Famous for its friendly deer, which are actually everywhere, Nara is small and amicable. We even made a couple of local friends that showed us how kind and generous Japanese people can be. One of them, an artist called Tomoko, has even created a couple of sketches based on our meeting and is gifting them to us! Definite highlight of our time in Japan. A couple of tips for Nara:

• Stay at a Ryokan or traditional Japanese hotel. There seem to be many around Nara and they are surprisingly comfortable and beautiful.
• Play with the deer. You can see them all over, especially around Nara Park and around the Todai-ji Temple and the Kasuga Shrine, around Deer Park. They let you pet them and you can get pretty cute pictures taken with them, as long as you feed them yummy deer cookies available on sale in every corner.
• Visit the Todai-ji Temple and the Kasuga-taisha Temple. The first one is the world’s largest wooden building and has a great wooden Buddha inside, and the second is filled with lanterns and deer, and if you walk to the left once you climb back down from the main shrine, you’ll get to a high wooden building one has a fantastic view over the city, particularly magical in the late afternoon. The smell of the incense along with the light over the city is pretty special. There's a good view of the city from the Mount Wakakusa as well, but you must drive there. Recommended at night.

NAOSHIMA is a little island of 3.5K inhabitants that is pretty hard to get to, but it’s definitely worth the trip. It’s renowned for its contemporary art museums, which host many site-specific installations and pretty special pieces by a variety of artists. I found the island to be creative in itself and especially liked the Lee Ufan and the Benesse House Museums.They are both by the same architect, Tadao Ando and they allow you to enjoy the space along with the pieces. I found their ongoing House Art Project brilliant as well- they take empty houses scattered about residential areas and turn the spaces into works of art; there's 7 of them so far, and you can make a fun day out of walking around to visit each of them, with coffee stops along the way. Genius way of attracting tourism.

OSAKA is the third biggest city in Japan (after Tokyo and Yokohama) and it has a young feel to it. Lots of students, fashion and food. We didn't have enough time to properly see it, but a good friend of ours grew up there and she told us that the musts are Okonmiyaki, Udon and Ramen eating, Karaoke and a taste of the nightlife.

We loved Japan, will most certainly go back whenever we get a chance!

P.S. Best tip for Japan: carry cash around. Surprisingly, cards are rarely accepted.