Myanmar (Burma), the review

What a place! 

Burma was always meant to be one of the highlights of our trip- we pictured it as this fascinating, complicated and particularly beautiful country and we couldn’t wait to explore it...and explore it we did. 

Walking around the streets of Yangon is like traveling back in time. The feeling you get is similar to that you get when visiting La Habana, both having been frozen in time mid 20th century. Yet Yangon is bigger, dirtier and more chaotic. The old colonial houses are easily missed under stained walls, the paint having surrendered to the annual torrential showers. The streets are covered in red stains, fresh and dry, from the constant spitting of local men chewing betel nut incessantly, and just a short walk around the city is sure to procure a bazaar of smells, colours, sounds and people more diverse than that you might find in a whole country somewhere else. 

Few people know much about this country, mostly because it gets confusing: Myanmar, known as Burma until 1989, was an English colony for a short while; it was also a place ruled by many small kingdoms once, and it has been an international pariah since 1962. It’s complicated. 

Once you’re there, the complexity of the country becomes apparent. A long history of ongoing ethnic conflicts, bureaucratic chaos, systematic corruption, and military repression have created a country that is as knotty as it gets. 

Sadly, Burma continually ended up becoming a victim of history. Bad luck (bad timing) again and again got on the way of Burma’s attempts to progress: the decline of the English empire, Japan’s imperialism, World War II, China’s Cultural Revolution, the Vietnam War, the Cold War…

Extremely diverse, constantly unstable, always vulnerable: Burma’s story is that of a beautiful place imprisoned by incompatible aspirations, both internal and external.

Today, after over 50 years of isolation (partly self imposed and partly because international sanctions) it is awakening as a fascinating and naturally magnificent place. In 2011 the repressive military junta that held power since 1962 was dissolved and even though it retains great power over the government, democratic reforms are taking place as the country continues to open up to the rest of the world. 

Because tourism is still quite limited, the experience is very authentic. Local people are very curious about foreigners (to some of them we were the first foreigners they ever saw or talked to) and they smile shyly but easily. The younger generations read and write good English but don’t get to practice it, so they appreciate a chance to. Most of them hope for a professional future in the (thriving) tourism industry or a job abroad. Singapore seems to be a popular destination. 

           

Buddhist monasteries have a strong presence all over the country, but we came across many churches, temples and synagogues as well. 

Rice is a big part of the local culture: a central element to their meals it is not uncommon to see young buddhist nuns singing along the streets and collecting rice from believers in the afternoon hours. I remember thinking that rice even shaped Burma’s landscape, with never ending green rice paddies dominating the horizon. 

Traditional wear, the longyi, is widely used in urban and rural areas by men and women. Trousers are pretty uncommon. 

Electricity, sewage systems, roads…infrastructure in general is scarce. This is one area where the government’s incompetence is beyond apparent- and a major factor holding the country’s economy back. I read somewhere that Myanmar people like “new” things and I don’t know if that is true but the military junta certainly did: with the country’s main cities lacking proper roads to connect them, they built a “new capital” in Naypayidaw.

While in Yangon, the country's largest city, we visited the Shwedagon Pagoda: Burma’s pride and glory, and one of the most impressive buildings we have ever seen. Its golden structure shines beautifully under the sky and its central stupa is made of genuine gold plates. Burmese people donate gold to the pagoda to maintain it, a practice that started when the pagoda was first built in the 15th century. I found the Sule Pagoda quite impressive as well- built 2,500 years ago, it’s a symbolic place in the country’s history and that is something you can feel and see as you walk around it looking for your corresponding shrine. 

Bagan is one of the most beautiful and spiritual places I have ever been to. Over 2,000 temples and pagodas beautify the horizon and take your breath away. Red brick stupas look up at the sky from a green sea of trees and hot air balloons add to the impossible beauty of sunrise and sunset in this place. The most practical and fun way to get around the temples regardless of where you stay is by bike. The heat that dominates this region most of the year allows you to ride around the temples early in the morning and late in the afternoon.

My favorite part of our trip in Burma was the 3 day track we did from Kalaw to Inle Lake. Our group of 7 (including Naing Naing our guide) walked 62 kms across the Southern Shan region, spending the night in family homes, visiting isolated little villages amongst endless (and gorgeously bright) green rice and tea fields...the scenery was astonishing and the time we spent walking (between 6 and 8 hours a day) gave us the chance to view, experience and reflect upon the country we were discovering in the best possible way. It was awesome. We met so many kids on the way (I gained the honorary title of ‘tooth fairy’ by refusing to give away candy to the children and giving tooth brushes away instead) and we were fortunate enough to meet Myanmar people of diverse ethnicities, faiths and cultures. 

We chilled in Inle Lake for a couple of days and got a chance to see its artisanal fishermen, with their elegant rowing technique, their awesome nets and boats. The lake’s water has a texture that is often described as ‘inky’; I don’t know if that’s the best word to describe it but its water certainly is particular, it’s special- I would use terms closer to mysterious and holy to describe it, partly because of its look and feel but mostly because of the amount of life that blossoms around it. 

We ended the trip back in Yangon, which by our second visit made a lot more sense. Overall Burma was an experience that aroused all of our senses, a thrilling place to visit. We were tired and ready for some Aussie hamburgers, but I felt a little nostalgic about leaving Burma. What a place! What a country!

Cambodia, the review

We decided to go last minute. We hadn't booked anything as we considered whether to visit Hanoi in Vietnam or to go to Cambodia instead. We only had a week before we were due to land in Myanmar (Burma) and even though Vietnam remains undiscovered to us, I’m happy we decided to go to Cambodia. We spent one week there and in that time we visited Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. 

A modest budget goes a long way in Cambodia, so we stayed at The Plantation in Phnom Penh and in the Bunwin Boutique Hotel in Siem Reap. These are two of best hotels we’ve ever stayed in-  first class design, a tranquil atmosphere and top level service. 

Very quickly Cambodia found its way into my heart. It’s a beautiful country with excellent people, and the food is to die for. 

Similar to my previous experience in Korea, I learned how little I knew about it while I was there; Cambodia has a grand imperial past but due to its geographical position it has been caught in regional power struggles for centuries. It became a French colony in the late 19th century, until its independence in 1953- a hot time in international politics. In the midst of the Cold War Cambodia attempted to stay neutral but it eventually got caught in the middle. It was bad. 

In Phnom Penh we saw a lot of poverty; skinny kids running around naked, filthy streets and people openly living in half done shacks that served as shops during the day and covered them from the drizzle by night. Walking or driving around town is quite challenging- there were more motorcycles than in any other city I’ve been to before (‘bikes are the car of the poor’ our taxi driver remarked), and there was no apparent logic to the traffic. It’ somehow fun though: there’s no anger in the honking, and you get this sense of pride when you manage to get your way.

Cambodians have a smile in their faces most of the time, but it is hard to miss their sorrowful past and notice its consequences. We had read about Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge regime before, but when we visited the Killing Fields and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (once the regime’s secret police headquarters) we got a graphic idea of the atrocities committed during this time in the attempt to create a “pure agricultural state”. From 1975 to 1979 the country was ruled by fanatics that oppressed, tortured and mass murdered its own people leaving over 2m dead (approx. a quarter of the population) and setting the country back decades. The fall of the regime was followed by a war with Vietnam that lasted over two decades, causing more suffering, famine and death. 30 years later we visited a wounded but beautiful Cambodia, finally getting back on its feet, with great spirits and with a clear intention not to forget, but to build from its past. 

In Siem Reap we were blown away by the beauty of the many temples in the Angkor region. The most renowned ones are Angkor Wat, Prasat Bayon and Ta Prohm, but there are countless more to see. We spent over nine hours walking around these testaments of grandeur and faith (buddhist or hindu, and sometimesboth). I could not believe myself then and even now, looking back, it seems unreal that places like that even exist, and that they are man made. The beauty and magnificence of the temples cannot be put into words because it’s not about their size, their detailed artisanship or age; it’s something you feel because of what they represent and what they are a proof of. 

For me personally, Cambodia hit a nerve; the character of its people reminded me of my own: Guatemalans are generally docile and submissive, they keep their opinions to themselves, try to avoid painful memories and smile constantly. While I was in Cambodia, I read Haing Ngor's book Survival in the Killing Fields and I cried many times upon the constant realisation that even the kindest of us are capable of the worst barbarities. The brave and indispensable efforts not to let people forget now on display in many ways across Cambodia filled me with hope, and perhaps a little fear; for Guatemala has a disturbing past of its own, and we are yet to honour it, recognize it and learn from it as a nation. 

Inspiring and fascinating, Cambodia is a place to experience. 

The Philippines, the review

I will never forget the feeling of awe that overtook me as we approached Busuanga Island. The view from the airplane was like something out of my dreams: clear blue water surrounding round green hills, bald and almost funny looking, and incredibly beautiful. 


The Philippines has some of the clearest natural water to swim in. FACT. It has an infinite number of perfect unspoiled beaches. FACT. It has some of the world's best wreck diving spots. FACT. HOWEVER, once you have been there, nothing is more clear than the fact that the Philippines' biggest asset is its people. For Filipino people smiling seems to be as natural as breathing. They tend to live pretty laid back lives and like to make fun of everything. That includes you, me and everyone else. 

It would be unfair to speak of The Philippines without mentioning we only visited a portion of its over 7 thousand islands: the Palawan region, which sits southwest of the capital Manila. We landed in the island of Busuanga on a Monday afternoon after a brief stop in Manila (chaotic, loud, dusty) and stayed near the small town of Coron, which consists of one strip of roads packed with travel agencies offering island tours and boat rides, a couple of diving schools, restaurants and small hotels. It was here that we first rode one of the locally popular 'tricycles' which are basically regular motorcycles with a cabin attached to one side fitting about 4 additional people. They are not very fast, probably dangerous and certainly fun. 

What makes a visit to Coron worthwhile is the beauty of the island. Its main attractions include the beautiful rock formations and rock inslets around it, Kayangan Lake, and its amazing wreck diving spots (Japanese ships from WWII) which have earned Coron a place on the world's top 10 scuba diving spots (we took advantage of this and got our Advanced Divers License in Coron).

I also found impressive, especially in a country with messy politics and a reputation for a corrupt government, that most of Coron island's land belongs and is managed by the indigenous Tagbanwa, which take excellent care of it and continue to lead their traditional ways of life there while getting a bit of extra money from tourism to build schools and hospitals. I loved this. 

The Philippines' Spanish colonial past is not evident, or at least not in Palawan. People here speak mostly Tagalog, a language that doesn't resemble Spanish at all, although it does use some Spanish words, numbers and expressions. 

The highlight of our time in The Philippines was the 5-day boat expedition from Coron to El Nido we did with TAO Philippines. We explored remote islands, went to the best snorkeling spots, ate fresh fish every day, sometimes even sashimi from tuna caught on the way; we engaged with local communities, played, sang, danced and had a blast both on board and in the base camps we stayed at overnight. We were a group of 17 people, including the crew, gathering a handful of nationalities, professions, ages and lifestyles. 

Our adventure, summed up:

1. Volleyball Island: 

First base camp we stayed at. We called it "Volleyball Island" because we played two very unprofessional, very fun volleyball games there. We were joined by kids from the local community, who were incredibly curious and smart. I complimented them on their English and asked whether they learn it at school and they said no, they learn it from the TAO crew and the groups of tourists they bring along every week during high season. It blew my mind. 

At this point the group was just getting to know each other  but had a bit of help loosening up from the crew, who kept passing cups of pinneaple rum around while we watched the sunset from a hill. That night,  and every night, we dined al fresco. After dinner, a couple of us went midnight swimming and I had one of the most magical experiences: swimming in sea water filled with phytoplankton. It was a starry night and the water was completely dark but as soon as you moved around in it the plankton starter shining like glitter. It was like swimming in the night sky. It was beautiful. 

 



2.Karaoke Island: 

This island was a lot smaller and a lot more basic. We all had to sleep in one big hut, there were no electric plugs. but there was something better: a karaoke bar. 

That night cost us a whole day of good food as our chef got so drunk he was out for the next 24 hours, but it was really fun. I also saw live squid swimming for the first time- haven't eaten calamari since. 

3. Paradise Island: 

We got delayed by strong currents and couldn't reach this island until late at night. By then, it was dark and the water was extra choppy. As each of us put our headlamps on, grabbed a couple of personal things for the night and jumped into kayaks, we were all quietly praying we wouldn't be the ones to flip over. 

It was, for me, the most beautiful camp we stayed at. It consisted of small huts lit but candle, as there was no electricity. The huts were perfect for two and had no walls, the sea breeze providing the perfect natural ventilation that sent us all into deep sleep, just to wake up right on the most gorgeous beach of all- a couple of steps to the water. Wonderful. 

4. Pig Island: 

It was our last night together and it couldn't have been more perfect. We had a camp right on the beach, a speed roasted pork ready for us to feast on and a group of local women TAO had trained ready to give us a full body 60-minute massage right under the stars. Most of all, by then, we were a big group of friends ready to have another night of fun together. 

A bonfire was lit and like out of a movie a talented, friendly Filipino guy came out of nowhere with a guitar and started playing the all time favorites. We sang for hours and went on to finish any beer, any rum and any whisky that was left. We cleared the house, or boat rather. 

Before reaching El Nido we stopped at the "Big Lagoon" for a quick snorkel and it was incredible. We saw turtles and stingrays, had our last swim together and then parted. 

It's funny; when we first arrived on the morning of departure, excited but not really knowing what to expect, we were told by the TAO crew that we would end up becoming friends for life...and to me, it seemed unlikely that 5 days could have that effect on such a diverse group. But they were right! To Debbie and Paul, Anita and Josh, Harriet and Jan, Miranda and Cristiano, Andy, Catherine and the TAO crew: I MISS YOU. 

We shared and experience that was made great not by the sheer beauty of the places we visited but rather by the unashamed openness with which we treated each other. Thank you. 

The last couple of days we spent in El Nido, making use of our recent Advanced Divers License and getting a couple of more dives into our logbooks. I send most of my time daydreaming about the fantastic and new kind of tourism my eyes had just been open to: so organic, so socially responsible, so eco. I decided I wanted that for Guatemala too and added it to my ever-growing To Do List. 

Thank you to all of our Filipino friends...Filipino Power is with us. Forever!

Hong Kong, the review

I found Hong Kong very impressive. Modern and vertical, it is a testament to men's will and power. With possibly the highest density of people I have ever experienced, slightly more chaotic than the big cities in Korea or Japan, Hong Kong has a characted of its own. 

Most of its inhabitants are Chinese, which of course makes sense, but I expected to see more British and overall more expats. Surprisingly though, English speaking is very limited. 

Often described as 'a city where east meets west', Hong Kong is a very interesting mix between traditional and modern China. Walking around the city you get to experience the colliding worlds of wealth and luxury faced with dirt-cheap modesty. Big beautiful hotels, expensive cars and fancy stores surrounded by crowded replica stalls, big messy markets and dirty little side streets.

Hong Kong's identity is inevitably linked to money. As you stroll down Hollywood Road you bump into many ambitious young people, most of them working in either finance, shipping or legal firms. A considerable number of them end up in HK due to the lack of jobs in their places of origin. 

The art scene seems to be growing with an ever expanding number of galleries and museums all over the city, and there's enough stores and boutiques to drive a girl crazy. You can also get really good food for reasonable prices: we went to possibly the cheapest Michelin Star restaurant in the world called 'Din Tai Fung' and had the best dim sum we have ever tasted. 

While in Hong Kong we got a good day view of the city from 'The Peak', a perfect night view of the city sailing on the 'Aqua Luna' and we walked around like crazy. We didn't make it to the Big Buddha, Macau or any of the enchanting fishing villages around the city...but HK is one of those places you just know you will visit again. 

For now I will remember it as a city of contrasts, where every lady seems to own a chanel bag. Original or replica, that's beyond the point.